2016 October a visit to Nepal

13 Nov 2016
Greetings all!  I'm finally getting the final entry to our Tibet/Nepal vacation written..a couple of months late, but better late than never!  The last leg of our trip to Tibet and Nepal was to go to Kathmandu!  It's hard to say the word without hearing the Bob Segar song.."going to Kathmandu"!  We did it...we went to the fabled place of the song and of the 1960's hippydome!  We had originally planned to drive from Mt Everest to Kathmandu, but with the earthquakes of 2015, the roads were destroyed, so we had to fly.  Over 8500 people died in all of Nepal during these earthquakes and the country is still recovering and slowly rebuilding.  I've already showcased the faces of Nepal in another entry, so this one is all about the other things we saw in our short visit.

Nepal and Hindu general information

The population of Nepal is 28 million people, and is about the size of the state of Arkansas in the US.  Kathmandu is the capital of Nepal.  The main religion  (~75% of the population) is Hindu.  The Main trading partners are India and  China.  The language is Nepalese based on San Scrit.  Money is Nepalese Rupi. Exchange rate between Rupi and USD is 104 Rupi = 1 USD.
Napa calendar is different .  Right now. They are in the year 2073.  Their calendar was started by a Nepalese King before the Christ died. Still has 12 months, their new year is equivalent of April in Western calendar.
Napal got rid of monarchy in 2008 in  peaceful transition by parliament, not by a vote.  Now the government is parliament and president and prime minister by election of the parliament persons.  King was not exiled and lives in his own private palace.
Electricity is provided by 1 hydro power plant for the entire country and they do not have enough capacity to meet demand, so there are 3 planned outages each day for 2-3 hours each.  So major businesses and hotels all have generators.  They still have public water/ public bath areas.  Marriages are arranged.  The Dowry paid by daughters side. Amount of dowry is not fixed or forced in Nepal,  but  Pressure to provide more, increases respect.
When daughter is married, the new couple is responsible to pay for husbands parents in retirement.  There is no fixed pension for retirement, except for government officials.
The cow is considered a goddess of prosperity and is considered holy.  They will eat a male water buffalo (not female)  But the male and female cow are not killed for food.  All Brahmin people are vegetarian typically.  For lower casts, they are not vegetarian unless in the case of a personal choice
4 casts : from top to bottom)  even though outlawed, still practiced in villages). 
1 Brahmin (government, and high ranking professionals)
2 chetrilia. (service)
3 bashia (business merchants
4 Dalit (butchers, cobblers, sweepers still considered untouchables)

Touring around Kathmandu

 While driving around, we saw some big bamboo Swings which are part of a yearly festival where at least 1/ year you leave the ground , you are on your way to heaven.  We stopped and had a swing with the local children!

Rod swinging in Nepal..leaving the ground!

Sarah swinging in Nepal...believe it or not, the swing seemed pretty sturdy...but looking at the picture now, not sure sure!

We went to the Monkey Temple/ Stupa  Swaymvhu Stupa is World heritage site and it sits on top of the hill overlooking the Kathmandu valley.
365 steps to the top,  gives you merit for each day of the year.  Lots of monkeys that come from the jingle around the stupa.  108 also a very special number in Hinduism. 12 zodiac signs x 9 planets = 108 and this is what fixes the future in Hinduism.
Stupa has Buddah eyes (stands for wisdom and compassion) this is painted on all 4 sides of the stupa to show Buddah always watching all over.  Each stupa has 13 steps at the top to represent the 13 steps of mediation to reach nirvana.

Sarah at the monkey temple in Kathmanudu

A Stupa in the Kathmandu valley in Nepal

The original The Buddah was born in Nepal. His name was Siddhartha, who was born to an original royal family in Nepal at 563 BC.  When he was born he could walk immediately and the first 7 steps he Sprouted lotus flowers so it always shows Buddah on top of a lotus flower.  He left home and meditated and became enlightened to them take on the name the Buddah. (Which means enlightened one)

A monkey on at the temple

Monkeys getting ready to jump into a swimming pool below at the temple

Napal resisted being colonized by the British when India was..they traded their indépendance for labor in the British army.  Girka army is still used to help supplement the British army, a left over from when Brittan ruled India.  It is not an official part of the Nepal Army, the Girkas are selected by British to be a special part of British army.  

Rod with one of the Girkha soldiers

We stopped by a place that had a "Singing bowl" demonstration...if you rub the rim of the bowl, it vibrates with a very high pitch.  It also has a nice ring when you strike it, like a bell.  In these bowls, there are 7 different metals.  According to the therapy demonstration, The bowl vibration keeps the Chakras in order.  We enjoyed the demonstration, but didn't buy any bowls...but did get a Gong!

Sarah getting a bowl treatment on her back! in Kathmandu

Rod getting a bowl treatment on his back...see that gong  hanging in the background?  It came home with us!

We visited 3 UNESCO world heritage sites all in various states of ruin after the earthquake and all in the Kathmandu valley. Boudha, Bhaktapur and Nyatapola.  They all have a Durbar square which is where the royalty lived.  Below are a couple of very short videos of the reconstruction work and areas in these areas.

In the Kathmandu valley, here are many Tibetans who fled from Tibet in 1959 when Tibet became part of China.  We visited some shops and saw some interesting woolen wares, in a Tibetan style.
The colors and design were very interesting to me.

Tibetan wools made in Nepal

A Nepalese Cremation

Probably the most morbid, yet interesting stop we had was seeing the cremations.  There are several places to do cremations, but the one we went to was the Pashupati temple by the Bagmanti River.
 All temples for cremation must be by a river for the religious ceremony。  This  river in Nepal the equivalent of the Ganges river in India.  Very holy for Nepal Hindus.
The Hindu's cremate as soon as possible.  They call the funeral service to take the body to the special stone slab on the river bank and put the feet in the river, the family members splash the water on the body. They take the clothes off under the shroud and put it in the river.  The put a type of red paint powder on the shroud and on the face.  After a certain time, they believe the spirit has left the body.  The then carry the body to another location where there is stacked wood. They carry the body around the wood 3 times before putting it on top of the stacked wood.  The body is always facing north.  After this, the son lights the fire and then the funeral director tends the fire to make sure the body burns all the way.  It will take 3-4 hours to burn the body.  The family stays the entire time. After the body is burned, the sweep the ashes into the river. Counting all, a funeral will take 5-6 hours for the family.  The have funerals 24 hour/7 days a week.  The believe that if the souls is trapped in the dead body too long, it will get angry, so they do it as soon as possible.  After the cremation, The son must fast for 13 days, he can eat 1/day no salt.  He can drink only water,  and eat only fruit and must shave all hair for 13 days.  He must wear all white for 1 year.  It can be reduced to less time by a priest by doing certain rituals.

The cremation ceremony on the river.  Yes, that is a body in the pile on the dock.

The "funeral workers" putting the shroud of the body in the river (must be a big jam in the river down stream!)

The colors of Nepal

Probably the most striking thing about Nepal to me were the colors...fabrics, dyes, clothing...all so vivid!

Dyes for use during their religious ceremonies

Dyes in the market in Nepal

Fabrics in Nepal

Clothing and fabrics in Nepal

dresses in Nepal

We had a quick trip to Nepal and spent most of our time around Kathmandu valley..a very nice trip to a very poor country still in the middle of rebuilding after the earthquake.  I was glad we went and could spend a few dollars to help the good people of Nepal.
So that about does it for this trip.  Blessings to all and until the next time!

Rod and Sarah

2016 October Tibet 3 - Mt Everest and Shikatste

3 November 2016

As I write this, it's a little over a month since we saw Mount Everest with our own eyes.  I have reviewed me notes and am trying to recount our visit to the highest place on earth!  When I stopped the last post, we had spent the night in the dump hotel...and now I start this one with an early start Sat 6:00am to try to see the sunrise on Mt Everest.  First stop was the border police station to register.  This time, Rod and I had to go ourselves with our passports to register. 
After that, we went up to Kyawula pass (altitude 5198m) .  From the top of Kyawula pass to the bottom the road has 108 curves, to have the same number as the 108 subjects of the Buddhist teachings.

Rod and Sarah at the Kyawula Pass.  The sign says welcome to Qongmolangma, which is the Tibetan name of kMt Everest

The sunrise on the Himalayans was so very peaceful!  The clouds cleared and we saw Mt Everest and the other mountains with the sun on the snow. It was early, cold, and very worth it to see...the pictures do not do it justice!

Sunrise on Mt Everest from Tibet

Early morning on the Kyawula Pass

Kyawula Pass and Prayer flags with Mt Everest in the background

After seeing the sunrise, we drove to tent city of the base camp.  Some people spend the night in these yak wool tents.  We had a cup of tea in one of the tents...it's quite cozy inside withe the wool carpets and if it were private, much better place to stay than the hotel...but we were not interested to sleep with 10 other strangers!  The tents are only open from April - October in case you are wondering!

A panoramic of the inside of a basecamp tent of Mt Everest

Rod and Sarah at Tent City of the Mt Everest base camp

 At the basecamp, we got in a van with others that was a  "so called environmentally friendly vehicle”  drove to the actual base camp. The weather was pristine at the base camp!  Obviously we cannot predict the weather...so we were happy when it was clear!

Mt Everest from Tibet

Rod and Sarah at the Base camp

The world is at her fingertips!

Rod and Sarah at the basecamp of Mt Everest.

Our view of the tallest mountain in the world!

 This was my last day of being 55 years old...and to my surprise, Rod got the people at the basecamp to sing happy birthday to me!  Hard to top that!!  I will always remember my last day of 55 spent at the base camp!


We decided to not stay a 2nd night at the 2 star Chinese hotel, so we drove back, get our stuff and go back to Shikatste to spend the night in a little better hotel and see yet another monastery!
So after seeing the tallest mountain in the world, we drove  another long road trip.  Originally we wanted to drive from the base camp directly to Nepal...but with the earthquake of 2015, the roads were destroyed, and not replaced so we had to drive all the way back the same way we came!

On the way, we had to stop to wait in our speed check point time and we met another sheep herder who was weaving.  This time, I was close enough to take a photo and video close up.

In Shokatse (2nd largest city in Tibet) we visited the Tashilhunpo monastery. Built in 1447 by 1st Dali lama. There are 4 temples, only 1 is original, the rest were destroyed in cultural revolution.
Before 5000 monks lived here, now around 400 who have registered.  The location was an ancient sky burial place.

The 2 stupas at the entry of Tashilhunpo monastery

A sign that looks alot like a Swastika...but it's not. It is a tibetan symbol that means everlasting and according to the Tibetans,the Germans stole it!  

Rod and Sarah at Tashilhunpo monastery in Shikatse

I was not feeling very well...too much Incense, sewer gas, dehydration from the altitude so I didn't explore too much, so we continued our drive to Lhasa.  Even though it was late when we arrived,  it was still my birthday, and Rod got the hotel to fix me a birthday cake and a special birthday greeting in Tibetan, Chinese and English!  What a nice way to end my birthday celebrations today!

A very special birthday greeting in  Tibetan, Chinese and English!

The day after my birthday was National day in China 国庆节！A special ceremony was held, in Lhasa but very few people allowed to attend (big crowds are tightly controlled in China and now especially in Tibet!)  As foreigners we were not allowed to go, or even get close. Our tour guide made sure we know that if we went there, or anywhere alone,  she and the driver would get in trouble!  So we had a relaxing morning at the hotel and prepared for our flight to Nepal on the next day.
So, I leave it here and we finished our lovely visit to Tibet, the final "T" of the forbidden topics of China (Tibet, Taiwan, Tian An Men) ..now, onto Kathmandu, Nepal!

Sarah & Rod
 

2016 October Tibet 2 ...road trip

1 November 2016

Greeting all,
This is the 2nd of the Tour of Tibet and this portion cover the road from Lhasa to Mt Everest (but Everest itself will be in the next part)

We started the day with a new tour guide as our original one got sick.  Like the original one, she is a native Tibetan and fluent in English, so we were well taken care of.
We drove from Lhasa for a long time...7 hours or so.  On the way, we go over mountain passes, see monasteries etc.   All driving distances are controlled, meaning that the driver gets a time stamp on a log and he cannot pass through the next stop until xx time to control the speed limit.  It doesn't really work...people still speed (unless they are in a camera zone), then they pull over and wait, waiting on the time stamp!

The first place we went was the Pabimka monastery.  (Name means big rock)   The monastery was built beside and on a big rock beside the cave where one of the Buddhas meditated).  The beginning of the first written Tibet language is stored in this monastery on San scrit.

Stupas at Pabimka monastery

At the door to the monastery

The entrance to the cave where the Buddha meditated

The big rock with the Pabimka monastery built on top of it

Stupas around the Pabimka monastery

Another big rock around the Pabimka monastery

A monk we met just before setting out on the hike from Pabimka to the nunnery

This monk  asked us to give this picture to the Dali Lama...not sure we'll be able to grant his desire!

After this monastery, our itinerary said we were to hike down to a nunnery.  Our new tour guide was not wearing hiking shoes etc, so we thought this was going to be a road hike.  We were wrong..and we are sure our tour guide took a wrong turn...she took us hiking up a mountain, no path, quartz rock, no firm footing, thin air!  We could see the nunnery in a distance, so we knew where we were to go, but we had to follow our instincts on how to get to there without falling down the mountain!  Going up wasn't actually too bad...it was coming down that was tricky!  When it was obvious that our tour guide didn't have a clue on the best way to proceed, Rod took the lead and "followed the yak droppings" and got us down the mountain!  Thank you Rod and thank you God for getting us off that mountain without any injuries or accidents!  All part of the adventure!

Even though it was dangerous, it was beautiful! 

One of the rare areas on the mountain hike where there was a path (or at least a path we could find!)

Coming up the mountain...not too bad!

Coming down the mountain a little less comfortable

Good thing we have both lost weight, or this path would not have been an option!

Some of the tough terrain we climbed up and down

Trying to figure out how to get down without going "all the way down"!  The area at the top left of the photo is where we are going...it was a long afternoon!  Good thing we were both in good shape !!

Arriving at the bottom!

One more obstacle to cross before the monastery!  We did it!

We ended up at the Nunnery, and they had a simple meal prepared for us...after an afternoon of hiking, we both enjoyed this simple meal.  Nuns must shave their head.  At this nunnery, the nuns did all the work..and there was a significant construction project ongoing...they were packing big packs on their backs...strong Tibetan women!

One of the nuns serving us yak butter tea

Rod enjoying the noodles

The toilet at the nunnery..yes, when you have to go, and this is the place, you go! Watch your step please!

Daily goings on at the nunnery..check out the solar water heater in the foreground, and the woman coming towards us in the background..strong women!

The next day, we drove another 7 hours
According to our guide, all water in the world start in Tibet (Himalayan mountains) (I still haven't validated that!)  We drove along the  Ya Long Tsang Po River and it is the highest River in the world, longest in Tibet. It empties into the Indian Ocean. On the way, we saw some interesting things...as I mentioned in another post, Yaks and everything that is from the Yak...even the dung...gives a whole new meaning to "throw it on the wall and see if it sticks"!

Yaks are Home, home on the range (mountain range)  in Tibet

Yaks along the way in Tibet..Yaks don't like banana peels either!

Remnants of Yaks...make into fire place patties ready for winter

New styles of yak piles...throw it on the wall and see if it sticks

The first mountain pass we went through was Campbella pass, 4998 m overlooking a turquoise blue  Yam duk lake (1 of the 4 holy lake in Tibet).  Cool and foggy here. This is a holy lake and absolutely stunning turquoise blue! Only yak skin canoe allowed on the lake to keep pure water.  Cannot see the head or end of the lake, all still in Tibet.  This region is known for mutton due to eating the grasses and water of the blue lake. It is around 70m deep.  IT was the bluest water I have ever seen...and that includes the beautiful lakes of Switzerland and Norway...just blue as could be!  This provided a nice photo opportunity to see (and pay to see) and Tibetan mastiff dogs and yaks.  They are a working dog to help herd and protect the sheep.  From what I understand they are quite expensive in China.

The beautiful azur Yam Duk lake in Tibet

Sarah right at home on the Yak...Thank God I'm a country girl!

On the top of the Cambella pass..look at the blue water...it was stunning!

Rod having fun on the yak!  You can't really see the blue lake due to the fog..the yak looked pretty happy and so was Rod!

Sarah at home with the "puppy" Tibetan Mastiff

Closeup of the Tibetan mastiff

Hugging up at Cambella pass

Another view of the Yam Duk lake

At the water side of Yam Duk lake with a dry stack rock stupa.  These formations were all around the lake side.

The 2nd  mountain pass was Carula pass 5020m where we were up close and personal with a glacier
and saw some more grazing yaks.

Rod and Sarah on the pass with the Glacier behind us

Yaks in the field with the glacier

The 3rd mountain pass was Semilla pass at 4330 m over looking another lake.   This lake  is also blue/green, but not as turquoise blue as the 1st one we saw.  So beautiful and clean! So many prayer flags.  Evidently, a person can only hang these on special days..not sure what that is...we bought a couple from the sellers here, but we didn't hang it.

Prayer flags at Semilla pass in Tibet

Samilla pass over looking the lake (This one is a hydro power lake)

The same lake at Samilla pass, on the shadow side of the pass

We continued driving (actually, we were riding!) until we arrived at Gyang Tse:  All along the way they were harvesting barley, we were driving, so hard to take a picture, but imagine that this was all done manually.  In Gyang Tse  the centerpiece is a monastery built in 1497.   This is an ancient city where there was a battle with British army and Tibet defeated them, so also called hero's town.  In this monastery, there was a lady carving the mantra, she was so nice and so gentle, we just had to do some business with her!  She carved her signature on the back.

 Inside the actual Tyang Tse monastery complex, we toured the monk's kitchen...and all around.  There was a lady there who just adopted us, she took us around, gave me a pin that she wanted me to have and she actually cried when we left.
At the entry to each of the monasteries (where you can still take pictures), there are typically scary paintings...this is to scare away the even spirits..I'm sure there is an more official version of their purpose, but that's my take-away.  In addition to the scary painting, there are paintings or statues of the 4 protectors.

Typical scary guy at the entry to the monastery

2 of the 4 protectors.

The other 2 of the 4 protectors

The yak butter tea pots in the monk kitchen of the Gyang Tse monastery

Gyang Tse monastery in Tibet

The Tibetan lady who adopted us and gave me a pin...such a sweet lady

Rod with our Tibetan lady friend at Gyang Tse monastery

Outside the Tyang Tse in the flower garden

Some of the vast landscape of high desert in Tibet

Finally after a full day's driving and touring we ended up in Shigatze and spent the night. (more about that place in the next post) The next day drove another 150km through Barron land.  We took the road 318 which was he first road that Chinese army built in Tibet.  At the 5000km mark there is a big monument. This road goes all the way from Shanghai to the Napal boarder. The monument means it is 5000km  from there to Shanghai.

Rod and Sarah at the 5000 mark on the 318 road.  I equate this to US Rt 66..only much more modern as it was built very recently as a trans continental road all across China.

Some where along the way we came across some sheep down by the river and they were just doing what sheep do...eating and playing under the watchful eye of their shepherd...nomad life in Tibet. 

We took a tour into the Sakya monastery.  During the cultural revolution 1956 "peace revolution" this northern part of monastery was mostly destroyed. The only thing left was 3 chapels.  North part built in 1067, in 1956 started reconstruction after cultural revolution. The one we visited was built in 1268. Very well preserved.
Each sect the protective deities are different. 150 monks are living here. Largest collection of Tibetan scriptures over 8 million scriptures in the library since 1000 AD and after. It is a treasure for Tibet.  also bought a traditional dress bead thing.   I'm not sure why I bought it...just attracted to it!  It is glass beads, and this thing (still not sure how or what it is used for) is all individually beaded..just feels good in my hands, so I bought...a few!

Beaded traditional head dress in Tibet

We stopped in Lhatse county village that is famous for making knives and they are quite unique.

Photo take from the top of the display case of the Lhatse Tibetan knives

We finally arrived in Shika (where we spent the night). Nothing special about this town, only where the hotel is. When we got there, all electricity went off...the symbol of things to come!  The only thing about this town was that it has a 2 star Chinese hotel which is the only hotel option for people going to the base camp.  We didn't think we wanted to stay at the base camp itself (sharing a tent with 10 strangers) or at a monastery (sharing with xx strangers), so we opted for the hotel...probably could have reconsidered this.  Heat came in and off all night, bathroom was not clean (Rod cleaned it himself) high altitude, neither one of us slept so good. It was a dump...but we survived...it's part of the adventure in Tibet!

Our hotel at Shika...the flowers were the best part about it!

This is where I will stop this entry...the next one will be about Mt Everest and transitioning to Nepal.

Blessings for all
Sarah